Archive for December, 2007

Thursday, December 20th, 2007

Welcome to Kuala Lumpur…

I arrived in KL for the first leg of my 6 week travel adventure several days ago. Yesterday was my first real dapetronastowersy in KL and I was brainstorming ideas for my day’s itinerary. Naturally, I started at the Petronas Towers (because that is the only thing I knew about KL before arriving). I navigated my way downtown to the towers only to find that the skybridge was closed for a Muslim holiday. Poop. Anyways, I start documenting my experience via my handy dandy Canon digital. As snapping a few awkward photos am man approaches me. He asks me where I’m from, which I reply USA. Instantly his eyes light up and invites me to sit down with him and his niece. Though hesitant, I oblige. Now the man is telling me his youngest daughter is moving to San Diego for school and that he worked as a civil engineer on the Petronas Towers. After two minutes of small talk he tells me that today is a holiday and the towers are closed (tell me something I don’t know). He then invites me to his house for lunch, no he insisted that I have lunch with his family. Despite all the alarm bells going off in my head, I get into the taxi.

Now I am getting pretty nervous in the car, I have no idea what to expect. People don’t normally talk to me for two minutes and then invite me over for a family dinner. I’m thinking, “Am I going to die? Is this a plot to abduct an American by building trust with an old man? What the hell am I doing?” After a ten minute taxi ride, I actually feel more comfortable and believe they just want to learn more about the United States to ease their qualms about their relative who is moving there.

“Hello! We have a visitor!” proclaimed the old Malay as he entered his house. I was treated very well, and was told it was such an honor that I was eating lunch with them. Hmm, do they know I’m 24 and unemployed? Before we eat, the old man sits me down and starts to talk to me about an eclectic array of topics, including my thoughts on Communism. To say the least, this was odd. Lunch consisted of several dishes that were not the slightest bit tasty. I choked down the food with a smile and a constant rub of my belly. If this whole scenario isn’t crazy enough for you, it get so much better.

The old man’s nephew(late 30’s) comes downstairs, very pleased to meet me. We start chatting about nothing in particular, before long he tells me he works in the VIP tables at the casino on the mountain just outside of KL. My ears perk up since Thatland forbids gambling and I miss it. We start talking about casinos, cards, Las Vegas, pretty much anything that involves losing your money. Then this clown tells me there is a way to win 100% of the time. Um, yea buddy, not really. House always wins. Now he’s a little agitated, I just called him a liar to his face in his house! Well, he must prove me wrong. The man outlines his job in the VIP tables, telling me there are no cameras, it’s usually one on one, the Saudis and Chinese are the craziest gamblers in the world etc. Then he asks me to wait for a moment while he proves me wrong. Okay, I sit patiently and trying to comprehend what the heck is going on. Moments later he comes back and invites me to this back room.

I step into this room where he has arranged a makeshift card table out of felt. Cards and chips are in the middle. The man swears me to secrecy about the things he is about to tell me (naturally I blog about it). He begins to tell me the basics of this game called Continental Blackjack, which is a combination of blackjack rules and poker betting. Intriguing, two games I enjoy to play. His lesson progresses slowly and I am not impressed. Following his initial instructions he begins to quiz me on strategy. The man is a card shark, like Edward Norton’s character in Rounders. He can manipulate the cards in any order he wants. He begins to ask what I’d do if I knew the dealer’s down card and the next card on the deck. Naturally, this make it easy for me to predict who will win the hand and how I should bet. He kept quizzing me, and I kept giving him answers using strategy if I DIDN’T know those two cards. He kept saying, but you DO know, so how would you play (he verbally told me, dealer has a 10, next card is a 4) Finally I relented out of fear and played along with his game. “See, you can win 100% of the time” I replied, “Yea, but in a casino you’re not going to be telling me the cards, so it’s not 100%.” Boom, now comes the real secret. Remember, this guy works in a VIP room with no cameras and tons of money is at stake. He explains to me this fairly simple, yet complex, set of hand signals indicating the dealer’s card and the top card on the deck. He continues to quiz me on my strategy and the next cards. I start to pass his tests with ease and he is becoming more impressed. He even threw in a couple of trick scenarios, that involved me resisting a card that would give me 21. By resisting I would win the hand outright, if I had taken the 3 for 21 the next card would have given the dealer 21 and a draw. Now this dude is telling me he’ll give me 30 minutes in his room, one hour max. I’m thinking what are you talking about dude? (at this point, my fear has clouded my mental abilities and I haven’t put two and two together; him teaching this game and 100% winning odds) Finally he outright gives me a proposition. He stakes the money 100% and I get 30% of the winnings or we both go in 50/50. Ahhhhhhh!?!?!?!!!?!

Let me get this straight, he wants me to help him cheat the casino (on a remote mountain, where my cries could be heard by no one), cheat a Chinese gambler who is most likely linked to the mob, and place bets of tens of thousands of dollars of money I can’t cover. Um, yeeeeaaa, I’m going to pass. I tell the guy I need weeks of constant practice before I would be comfortable to do this and I’m only in KL for a few weeks. I thanked him for his offer and said I would consider it if my skills became more natural. Pleased with this answer he shook my hand, reminded me of my promise of secrecy, and had someone safely drive me back to the towers. Wheew! (in all fairness to the old man, it didn’t seem like this was an intricate plan to get me to help the guy cheat. i still believe he honestly wanted to know about American life for the sake of his daughter. it just so happened i liked gambling and pushed this nephew’s buttons)

That my friends, is my first experience in Kuala Lumpur. Randomly being taken into a Malay home for lunch and propositioned with a very illegal and dangerous offer. Let’s hope the next craziest thing I encounter here is a female backpacker with hairy legs.

Monday, December 17th, 2007

Things I will miss in Thailand Part IV

In a weird and totally heterosexual way, I will miss 6 feet tall transvestites checking me out at 3 AM and saying, “Can I help you? You want Thai ‘massage’?”

Attention- I have not posted new pictures on Community Webshots for some time. I apologize for this, however there will be no new pictures posted until after my January 29, 2008 return to America. While I am unemployed and sitting at home in suburbia, I am sure I will find time to post ALL the photos I will have taken during my travels. Thanks for the cooperation.

Tuesday, December 11th, 2007

Next Stop…Laos

I’d like to a take quick break from my final countdown and converse about my recent trip to Laos. I’ve begun my travels throughout Southeast Asia, and this past three day weekend signified that start with a quick jaunt up to Laos. Well, what I thought would be a quick journey. After talking to several seasoned veterans of the Bangkok to Vientiane bus trip I was confident this would be a great trip. According to my plan, my travel buddy and I would take a VIP bus to Vientiane, which would take 10 hours overnight, wake up refreshed and smack dab in the middle of Laos’ capitol. From there we would enjoy rice wine, BeerLao, and delicate French cuisine. I live in my own little bubble of reality.

My friend and I hopped on a bus to Laos that left at 8:30PM from Bangkok. We were going to Lao and we were gitty with excitement. The bus ride wasn’t terrible, except that I didn’t realize how cold the air-con could get. I was huddle in my thin, bus distributed blanket, shivering in my shorts and tee shirt. I managed a few hours of shut eye, but I wasn’t deterred because I was going to an exlaotripotic paradise. We left the bus for a tuk tuk which would take us to the border. After crossing the border we looked for someone to take us to Vientiane (I was under the impression it was a quick taxi ride into the city from the border, look at the map). Well, no one would take us; we thought we were being ripped off. My partner refused to give in to their demands that they would take us to “Paksan” and we could get bus to Vientiane. So, her bright idea was to stand on the dirt road at 8 AM and flipping hitchhike! Her feeble attempts were greeted with gusts of dust from the passing cars and buses. Not being entirely on board with this idea from the beginning, I head over to the taxis again and negotiate a reasonable fare. With a little luck and artful negotiating we get the taxi to take us to this “Paksan” city for their original asking price. We jump into this car that seems like it should have been disposed of 14 years ago. Who cares, we’re on our way to Vientiane!

After a 30 minute taxi ride throughout the magnificent and peaceful countryside of Laos we reach a city. Here we are greeted by hoards of bus drivers. Tired, we accept the first offer we receive to take us to the bus station. We’re thinking we’re getting ripped off again, but who cares, we on our way to Vientiane! About ten minutes later we’re in the middle of some small town and greeted by hoards of travel agents. Hungry and not in the mood for harassment, Ozlem (my Turkish travel buddy and teacher at school) and I stop for food. As she orders food I look at my Lonely Planet (thanks Frin) to find out exactly where we are. Hmm, did they say Paksan? Well that’s not too far from Vientiane, we’ll be there by lunchtime. I put down my book to look around and soak up the atmosphere. As my eyes scan the restaurant, I see a sign for Pakse to Vientiane, 150,000 Kip (or $15). What the F? That’s pretty expensive for a short trip. My eyes revert to my LP map and scan the map for Paksan again. My eyes dart back to the Pakse sign, and realize these are two different towns. Shit! Holy $*@*#&$^#!!!!! We are in freaking Pakse! Look at the map I’ve attached. Paksan and Pakse are two completely different towns! (Yes, you are probably saying “duh” but when you are in Asia and translation between Thai/Lao to English is less than perfect, it seemed plausible that these two cities were the same) At this point I was in utter disbelief that we missed our expected destination by 600 KM (375 miles)! That’s not even sort of close. What the hell just happened?

Ozlem and I are now trying to fathom our miscalculation. How did this happen? (The short story is, we asked to go to Laos, where they did drop us off. What we should have asked was to go to the border city Nohn Kai, Thailand. From there we would could have gone to Vientiane) To exacerbate the situation, we can’t get a bus to Vientiane until 8 PM. That means we had to spend the entire day in no where Laos. Thankfully LP got us through the day, offering us useful hints for coffee, food, and ATM. (Seriously, if you ever travel buy an LP. If you visit a tiny indigenous village with 9 families, LP will be able to tell you which family has the best hut and who makes the best fertility potion for the best price.)

The rest of the trip wasn’t as eventful. Lao massage, BeerLao, 10 hour bus ride, Vientiane, tourist attraction, BeerLao, tourist attraction, tourist attraction, BeerLao, 10 hour bus ride, Bangkok again. Seventy-six hours from start to finish, thirty-six hours of transportation, and one very fond memory of getting lost in Laos.

Tuesday, December 11th, 2007

Things that I will miss in Thailand Part III

Rice, it’s the staple of Asian diets. As Americans we enjoy it along side our General Tso’s chicken every once in a while. As an American in Thailand, I get to “enjoy” rice everyday. I’ll never forget that first day when I ordered fried rice all by myself and the little lady across the road understood my order. Since that day I’ll have enjoyed dozens of bowls of fried rice. In between the fried rice, I’ve learned to order mixed vegetables, chicken with cashews, green curry, and an assortment of Thai dishes that I will probably never eat in the US. I’ll miss ordering food from a street vendor and getting the little packets of peppers in fish sauce that I always throw away. I’ll miss the game of viral roulette I play every time I eat from one of these vendors. It’s added excitement wondering if your last meal will cause you gastrointestinal distress the following day. Even though I hate them, I’ll miss those damn pork balls that everyone in Thailand eats and all the different meats on a stick I see where ever I go. I’ll even miss all the exotic Thai cuisines that I never tried out of fear. Despite all my grumblings, I’ll miss eating rice everyday.

Tuesday, December 11th, 2007

Things that I will miss in Thailand Part II

It’s been said that over 85 % of communication is non-verbal. My time in Thailand has made this factoid quite evident to me. My original intent coming out of college was to get a job in South America so I could become fluent in Spanish. I somehow ended up in Thailand where they do not speak Spanish. Needless to say, my Spanish has not improved. My ability to play on people’s emotions and body language has been heightened.

Naturally, I have acquired some Thai during my stay in Thailand. However, I am light years away from being fluent. I can say elementary things like directions, ordering food, and basic everyday phrases. This only takes me so far, if a conversation deviates from the aforementioned knowledge, I am up river without a paddle. Like in my previous entry about Ba Moo, I do a lot of smiling and nodding. I gauge people’s body language, expressions, and tone to deduce what they’re trying to tell me. I have been forced to be more in tuned to those non-verbal cues we give out during conversation. With all the talking we do, the real message is seldom from the words that actually come from our mouths and never has this been more apparent to me since my inception into Thailand (Perhaps I will finally understand what women are saying to me…ah, still doubtful).

I find it remarkable that I’ve spent the past year in a country where I don’t speak the native tongue and have communicated quite well. It’s an accomplishment that has been frustrating as well as rewarding. I will miss all the broken conversations I’ve had with various Thai people and sitting at dinner with five other people and still have the sensation that I was eating alone. I will miss smiling and nodding to conversations that I have no idea what’s being said. I will miss the everyday game of charades I go through to communicate with people; turning around and saying to myself with a half smile, “may kowjai” (no understand). I truly will miss all the confusion.